The 5th season - carnival in Germany

Today, on November 11th at exactly 11.11 am is the magical date for the beginning of the 5th season in Germany: carnival. In German it’s called Karneval and Fasching, depending on the region. Until Aschermittwoch (Ash Wednesday) celebrations, Sitzungen (sessions), floats, street events, parties, balls and many other festivities take place all over the country.
Today is also the moment when the ‘Tollitäten’, Prince and Princess carnival take over the reign of their ‘närrische’ subjects. Most famous are the Karnival in Köln and Mainz as well as the Münchner Fasching. Popular is the Weiberfastnacht in Cologne which is celebrated on March 7th 2011.
It’s a free for all for women, who storm the Town Hall and are allowed to cut off the tie of any man they choose. And to kiss them too. It's a fun occasion for a sinlge woman traveler. Just don a costume, mingle with the crowd and do as you please.
Karnevalsgesellschaften work all year on the elaborate floats which parade the streets of Köln, Mainz and other German cities. Sweets are thrown into the crowds who line the streets and cheer the floats. Everybody participates, wearing costumes and disguises or just a red nose.
Go and enjoy the 5th season in Germany.

How to get around as a single woman traveler

My recent arrival in Beirut, a city I don’t know at all, is a good opportunity to practise the best way of getting around when you are a woman travelling on your own. After four days of trying out this, that and the other, I think I have discovered the basics which, of course, can be applied to any other location in the world.

MAPS

Obviously, the first thing you do is to get yourself a decent map to see where you are and where the different districts of any city are located in relation to the location of your hotel or apartment. Draw a circle in red around your hotel so you can always see at a glance were you need to end up.

Fold the map to show only the section of where you want to go. Nothing makes you look more like a –sometimes vulnerable- tourist than holding up a big flapping map in the middle of the road and staring at it in confusion.

Be aware, that maps do not altogether coincide with reality. They are simplifications. You think, something is a clear run and it turns out that you have to take twists and turns which don’t show on the map.

Districts often go by different names. Familiarize yourself with them and find them on your map before you set out.

WALKING

The best way of getting orientated is on foot. Taking a taxi is easy, but you lose direction quickly, because taxi drivers take short cuts. Dispense with heels and wear flats and always watch out for holes and other obstacles on the pavement. Learn how streets are crossed. Are pedestrian crossing to be trusted or not? Are one way roads respected or not?

When taking a turn into another street, always look back and memorize landmarks, shops or billboards so you can easily retrace your steps.

Don’t hesitate to ask locals. Rarely will they send you in the wrong direction (it has happened to me, but not in Beirut). Pointing at your map helps when there are language problems, but be aware that, like here, locals seldom know street names. They refer to destinations by landmarks or buildings.

TAXIS

They are a blessing and a cruse in any country. A blessing because it’s the easiest way to get from A to B, a curse because there are different sorts of taxis and different fares. Many Middle Eastern countries have communal taxis which go vaguely in your direction and are shared by strangers. Leant what the fare is. Flag down a cab, shout your destination and add ‘service’ and if the driver stops you know you are on your way.

Individual taxis either have a meter, but always make sure it’s running. Or you need to agree the fare in advance. Make sure you know what it normally is or you end up paying twice as much or more because you have identified yourself as an ignorant tourist.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Riding local buses is great fun but rarely will you find itineraries or even stops (at least in the Middle East). Make sure you know how the ticket system works, do you need tokens, do you pay the driver, do you need the exact fare? Then, simply hop on and see where the bus takes you. Don’t forget your map and you’ll end up somewhere you will recognize although it may not be where you wanted to go in the first place.

After all, discovering places and doing as the locals do is part of the fun and excitement of travel.

SAFETY

Every city has areas where it is not a good idea to go, much less on your own and as a woman. Make sure what they are called and where they are. Pay attention to your surroundings, don’t flaunt 7 gold bracelets on your arm and a 2carat diamond on your finger. Dress to blend in and avoid tourist gear like hats with batches on it or the famous socks/ sandals combo. Leave plunging necklines for clubbing. But, don’t be too anxious. Don’t clutch your purse to your bosom and constantly look around for possible muggers.

I attended a self defense course a few years back and the first thing our instructor taught us was this: don’t look like a victim or you will become a victim. Be alert but also be confident. A self assured attitude is your best protection. I have found that to be sound advice.

Hallo Beirut!!!

This is my second day of three months in Beirut. Follow my adventures, travels and experiences on my other blog: www.glamourgrannytravels.com.

Often overlooked - the Ephesus museum

One of Turkey’s most famous landmarks and on top of every visitor’s must see list are the vast and impressive ruins of Ephesus. Located not far from the lovely coastal town of Kusadasi on Turkey’s Aegean Sea, people often come off the cruise ships which dock there and then go on a day trip to Ephesus. The site is immense and certainly well worth a visit, but what is often overlooked and, in fact, rarely included in organized tours, is a visit to the Ephesus museum. The museum is to be found in Selcuk . All visitors to the ruins of Ephesus pass through Selcuk anyway. So, if at all possible, go either by dolmus (minibus) from Kusadasi or else take a taxi and stop at the museum. It’s clearly indicated by a sign reading ‘Müze’. And here comes the secret: the best finds, statues and treasures excavated to Ephesus are not at the site but in the museum. The visitor is greeted by a reconstructed room of an ancient Roman mansion. Original tiles and mosaics cover the floor and walls and, to make matters a bit livelier, cut outs of Romans in their traditional dress populate the room. The museum only has a few rooms which are easy to negotiate and then you turn a corner and there she is: the famous Goddess Cybele, reproduced everywhere is actually standing in a niche in the museum. In duplicate, because a smaller statue was also found. A lovely courtyard with trees and a coffee shop allows for a rest and, equally interesting, a few rooms on the ground floor exhibit paintings by modern day Turkish artists. Don’t miss it.

Dress like a local--or rather not?

One nice aspect of travel is of course to admire the colorful local garments worn by women and men. Vibrant hues, shimmering fabrics, lace, flowers, elaborate gold ornaments, at the sight of all this abundance, the temptation is there to slip into the role of local. However, there is a fine line between blending in and making a fool of oneself. Of course, many of the most elaborate costumes are only worn on special occasions and celebrations anyway, so they are definitely out. But what about everyday wear like kimonos, saris, dirndls and, yes, Lederhosen?? Would or should you as a clearly Western woman don a kimono and cloggs and go shopping in broad daylight in Tokyo's Ginza? Should you squeeze yourself into the thight bodice of a dirndl and stroll across the Viktualienmarkt in Munich if you happen to hail from Ghana? Or are Lederhosen ok for a gentleman from Japan who enjoys a Mass or five at the Oktoberfest? I think not. The exception are, for woman, Arabic countries where they have to cover up. Saris and kimonos could be ok for evening wear if you are not a local. Headscarves, long sleeved blouses and baggy pants are often worn (and expected) by women who are engaged or married to a Turkish man. And the Lederhosen best fit the muscular bodies of the local lads. For fun I tried on the antique caftan you see in the picture. I couldn't have left the shop with it anyway, the price was skyhigh. Any opinons about the subject would be much appreciated.

Coming soon

I'm happy to announce that I'm currently creating a new blog, or rather a decent website with professional help. I already got the domani name: Glamourgranny Travels. The content will be similar to the current one but with more sections and directed at older women who like to roam the world but prefer to do so in some comfort. I'll feature hotels, spas, luggage, keep fit tips and look into some organised tours as well. It'll have more sections, a picture gallery and tons of links to other website also directed at older women but not necessarily dealing exclusively with travel. It's an exciting new enterprise and I only hope that many will find it interesting.

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Getting into the spirit of Cappadoccia

Capadoccia, the otherworldy landscape more or less in the middle of Turkey is all about bizarre rock formations called chimneys or mushrooms, caves, hikes or going up in a balloon and looking at it all from above, accompanied only by the sound of the wind and the hot air keeping you afloat. On my way to Van in the very east of Turkey I stopped in Ürgüp which can be considered as one of the gateways to the wonder-world of Cappadoccia and what better place to get into the spirit of things than spending the night in a cave hotel. I found the ideal place in the Ürgüp Cave Inn. I couldn't have made a better choice. The hotel has only seven rooms and-as the name suggests-in partially built into the rock. Arriving you get already a stunning view of some rock formations and caves which rise up behind the hotel. The rooms are spacious and beautifully furnished with a lot of attention to detail. It's noticable that this is a family run place. Outside is a terrace with wines growing over it for use in summer. The hotel offers only breakfast which is served in the 'family kitchen' which is tiny, but if all guests are hungry at once, an ample tray is carried to your room. Imagine this, room service, a shower which works, particularly nice soap, free WiFi and central heating to take off the chill for EUROS 25 for a single room. Even more, Ömer, the owner, will bend over backwards to arrange trips for you and give you tips where to eat and what else to do in Ürgüp. Rarely have I found a more friendly atmosphere and better value for money, so the scene for my Cappadoccia adventure was set.

Participating in Blog Action Day

This year's theme is water and I just posted a blog on my nileguide/Lebanon page. www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/beirut-lebanon/2010/10/15/waters-of-lebanon.

Finding the Van cats

For once one of the principal reasons for my recent trip to Van in the far east of Turkey near the border with Iran and Armenia was not to look at museums, archaeologial sites and breath taking nature (I did that too) but to find animals. Two in fact: one being the famous monster of Lake Van and the other, more realistic, the Van cat. These cats are very special and only bred and raised in Van. They are all white, have different colored eyes and their most intersting idiosycrasy is that they absolutely love water. That part of Turkey is not a prime destination for tourism which means that if you want to see something you very much have to find your own way there. I love that because it makes travel an adventure and so much more interesting. How did I find the Van cat? Well, my first port of call was the hotel manager. He brust into laughter when I mentioned the monster and said that he would call it at midnight so I could see it. When he was finished laughing he got serious and told me about the 'Cathouse' located within the campus of Van university. A map of the city revelaed the location. So, I took the dolums (minibus) into Van and then went about finding the next one which runs to the university. Not an easy enterprise but everybody I asked for direction were trying to be helpful, but...there was the little matter of communication. Nobody speaks English or any other language I know, so I got a crash course in Turkish and my limited konwledge of the language increased out of necessity. I got on the right bus and when we came to the entrance of the university, an armed guard (!!)got on the bus and asked me where I was going. 'Kedi evi', I beamed, proud to know the words. He beamed right back, motioned me off the bus and then accompanied me all the way to the cathouse...and stayed. There they were, hundreds of little, white, wooly balls, running around in their enclosure and looking at the foreign visitor with one brown and one green or blue eye. It is as if they know how special (and expensive) they are, because they didn't feel like posing for me. Just gave me a big, pink jawn. Nevertheless, I found my Van cats and managed to get a few pictures of these extraordinary and so,so cute creatures.